Question about cycling and ammonia!?
My tank still has 0.5 ppm ammonia despite me conducting a 30% water change this afternoon. However, my tank is NOT completely cycled and is in the process of cycling. I have added Stress-Zyme in order to boost the cycle and make it faster.
However, under the “Starting the Nitrogen Cycle” section of the book “Freshwater Aquariums for Dummies”, it says
“About 2 weeks after you add starter fish to your aquarium, the ammonia build-up in your tank begins to peak………You’re probably wondering what to do with the ammonia, right? Well, just sit back, because your friendly neighborhood bacteria will take care of everything.”
Is the last sentence of that paragraph “….Your friendly neighborhood bacteria will take care of everything” true? So if it is, that means I’ve been conducting all these 30% water changes and adding Ammo-Lock for nothing? But if I don’t do anything, won’t the ammonia become dangerously high?
Please answer the questions for me because I really am lost between the text of the guide and my instincts…
I forgot to say that this is NOT a fishless cycle, I have blood parrot cichlids.
To the first answerer: What do you mean by “let your biological filter catch up”?
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The bacteria are housed in your filter. It’s okay to keep up with water changes, though I don’t like so much water changes in a fish less cycle. After the cycle is done I just do one final 50% water change or something. But that’s me.
You’re doing fine, let your biological filter catch up. =)
Even if the ammonia is dangerously high in the peak, it’s okay, because there are no fish in the tank. The bacteria in your filter will convert the ammonia to nitrite, also dangerous to fish. Nitrite is then converted to nitrates. So after your ammonia spikes expect a nitrite spike. When both ammonia and nitrite hit 0, and nitrates are 20 ppm, you are basically done. Do one final 50% water change, test parameters again. If it still sits at 0 (ammonia), 0 (nitrite), 20 (nitrates) you are cycled.
I’ll tell you this…
The key to this is simplicity.
1. Water conditioner,(to remove chlorine. I like “Prime”, it takes out chlorine,helps with slime coat, and HELPS neutralize ammonia and nitrites) is all the chemical you will need.
2.Stop with the other added chemicals!
3. Cycling made simple from where your at in the process.
Test your water everyday, twice if needed…
If the levels exceed the yellow on the test kit (0.50-1.0), do a 30-50% water change. If it goes in the green for to long your fish are in trouble.
Thats it!! No more…
After a couple of weeks your ammonia levels will drop. When they begin to drop notice the nitrite levels will begin to rise. Repeat the process above till those levels go down to 0 as well.